Using another female spade and a male bullet, connect it to this open connection. The male plug that comes from this relay has two wires, red and green. I also used this same point to connect the grounds, both from the lights and from the relay. I attached it to a point where my cruise control used to be. This is the relay (assuming yours is good-mine was bad, but fortunately they are readily available if you find that yours is bad as well). This will induce the switch to be functional when the key is in the 'on' position AND the headlights (not just parking lights) are also on. If you are using the JDM fog/defrost combo switch mentioned above, just plug that into here: To the bottom-right (botton row, far right corner and the one to the left of it) two connections on this plug you should find behind your dash switches. Using spade connectors, wire the middle two connections on the switch (on right in this pic) the only thing I can't figure out is where the small 2-wire male connector plugs in to - I am assuming the North American models still have the female connector hidden somewhere.Īfter much fiddling and testing everything with a multimeter, here's what I did:

Run power to the fog lights which will mount in the grill, one bolt will be located by the baby tooth and is in metal the other bolt will go through the top of the grill and will need a nut to hold it to the bumper cover, you do not need to drill any holes.ĭid you ever tget this figured out? I have a couple sets of OEM fogs with the stock switch, wiring and relay. Wire that relay into the fuse box with an appropriately sized fuse, factory fog lights are 55w bulbs so 110w divided by 12 volts gives you 9 amps, I used a 15 amp fuse. That switch will supply power to the green wire in your 4th picture when the head lights are on and the switch is depressed.ĭO NOT POWER THE FOG LIGHTS OFF OF THE SINGLE GREEN WIREįrom there I ran a single wire over to the front passenger (right) fender by the hood prop and mounted a relay, there is an empty bolt hole for what ever reason. Either switch will need to plug into where the defrost in your car was, the fog lights use the same plug. I used the combo fog light/rear defrost switch MZ-N021-V7-237 as my car has a hardtop on it, but the switch to the far right in your picture should also work. I can tell you how I did mine, can't guarantee you it is factory but I can guarantee you that it will work, assuming your car is a 94-97 US Miata Usual preference is the convert a reverse light or the trunk stop lamp to a fog. Roadsters never came with rear fogs, but its an easy job to wire one in. Plenty of write ups abound how to wire up the switches themselves. There are a lot of differences in the looms of Roadsters and Miatas, that vary by year. You are better off buying a light wiring kit, and wiring from scratch. The wiring might not be there I don't know. I wouldn't waste time trying to chase up mystical wiring in a LHD Miata that may or may not be similar to a RHD MX5 or Roadster.

Switches pulled out of crappy 323s have a gloss finish. Note, genuine Mk1 MX5 switches have a matt finish. True 89-97 EUDM MX5 switches have a tell tale fitted into the switch. He ripped you off.ĩ0-92 vintage 323s had a separate tell tale light on the dash for the switch. Although it will fit in a mX5, the seller should not have sold it to you as a MX5 switch. The switch in the middle for a rear fig has been ripped out of an old Mazda 323F.

Na miata jdm tailights